Explore Portugal Like a Local
Neighborhoods, Food and Back Roads Beyond the Guidebook
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Explore Portugal Like a Local
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Hugo Reinhardt
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Around Lisbon's Rossio square, there are bars so small that you drink your cherry liqueur standing on the pavement, and the barman asks whether you want it with or without the cherry. In the Serra da Estrela mountains, the local cheese is so soft you eat it with a spoon. In the far northeast, people still speak Mirandese, Portugal's second official language. Hugo Reinhardt knows where to find all of them.
Explore Portugal Like a Local is a travel guide written to be listened to: on the plane, in the car, or over a coffee before you set out. Most visitors arrive with a short list of Lisbon, an Algarve beach and a port tasting in Porto. Across 17 chapters, Hugo goes much further, through the cork oak forests and whitewashed towns of the Alentejo, up the hand-built vineyard terraces of the Douro, into the granite villages of Trás-os-Montes and out to Madeira and the Azores. You'll learn how to:
• Order coffee at the counter like a regular, handle the bread and olives that arrive before you've ordered, and never, ever greet anyone in Spanish
• See Belém, Sintra and Porto's river front at the right hour, then take the few-minute ferry to Cacilhas for a view of Lisbon spread across its hills
• Watch the resident dolphins of the Sado estuary, walk the fishermen's stilt pier at Carrasqueira, and see the Milky Way over the Alqueva lake from the walls of Monsaraz
• Ride the train along the Douro and step off at Tua or Ferradosa for a night in a riverside village
• Find a family-run tasca, ask for the prato do dia, and tell your bacalhau from your cataplana
• Plan around Monday museum closures, June's street parties for the popular saints and the August rush on the roads
Every chapter ends with Hidden Gems & Local Secrets: three or four tips you can use the same day, such as the quieter viewpoint, the right time to arrive, or the dish to ask for.
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