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Charlie is the founder of Paradigm Climbing and he has been coaching climbing athletes from the beginner to elite level for over 17 years. In this episode, we’ll hear about a suspicious supplement sponsorship he had when he was a kid, what his world cup experience was like back in the day, why he thinks competition climbing has turned way too much into not real climbing, and of course everything coaching related.

Guest links:

Paradigm Climbing Website

Instagram

Youtube

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:18 - Insane schedule

7:02 - Getting into climbing, competing, and coaching

11:31 - Sketchy sugar daddy athlete sponsorship??

17:05 - How he would coach his younger self

22:10 - Strengths and weaknesses

26:57 - His experience competing at world cups

36:14 - Coaching goals

38:21 - How personalized does coaching need to be?

52:09 - How to learn movement

55:05 - The importance of spray wall

1:06:18 - AUDIENCE Q: How to improve as a coach?

1:08:48 - World Climbing Setting is too far gone?

1:16:58 - What the US is doing wrong with training

1:22:52 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you tell when a kid will be a v17 climber?

1:27:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Fingerboarding vs board climbing?

1:29:24 - AUDIENCE Q: How to train big dynes?

1:32:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Dream clients?

1:35:14 - Words of wisdom and where to find Charlie

Ardch is a boulderer for the Thailand team, and he has made semis several times in World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll hear why he thinks climbing is performative in Thailand, why it’s hard to grow climbing as a spectator sport, and we’ll talk about where we draw the line on setting that is too trendy. Hope you’re ready for some hot takes and strong opinions in this one!

Guest links:

Lucka's Instagram

Reference links:

PCL Bouldering Project Qualifiers

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:16 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:07 - Winning Seattle Boulderfest + PCL

9:31 - Moving to the US, getting into climbing

15:47 - Performative climbing in Thailand?

25:49 - Lack of World Climbing level Thai climbers

33:15 - Should it become a D1 sport in the USA?

39:13 - How to grow climbing

47:39 - Goodbye dirtbags

51:03 - Outdoor paddle dynos

58:20 - What climbing trend goes TOO FAR?

1:03:15 - What does it take to make semis and finals in world climbing?

1:12:29 - Salt Lake City and Mental Pressure

1:15:05 - Why is the mens field so unpredictable?

1:20:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Wow factor to making finals?

1:25:42 - Glazing Sorato

1:28:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Most underdeveloped part of climbing?

1:31:27 - Words of wisdom and where to find Arch

Bharath and Vishak are climbers from team India who now have experience at several world series events. In this episode, we’ll hear about the unique challenges they face climbing and training in India, some crazy stories about the worst bouldering nationals ever, why they think the average age for comp climbing will get older, and how they aim to grow climbing in India by routesetting and making climbing shoes.

Guest links:

Bharath's Instagram

Vishak's Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:19 - Training in Japan

7:01 - Getting into climbing and competing

15:10 - India climbing scene then vs now

16:57 - The state of setting in India

23:36 - The worst comp EVER

28:31 - Outdoor climbing in India

30:11 - What happens in World Climbing ISO

36:11 - Best tips from pro climbers

40:47 - Give Bharath some skin advice please!

44:00 - Team dynamics in ISO

47:21 - Crazy coaching practices in India

52:34 - Will comp climbing stop being so young??

1:00:54 - New school moves and coordination rock climbs?!

1:03:10 - Making climbing shoes

1:09:35 - Balancing training and setting

1:13:08 - Asia cup goal

1:17:57 - AUDIENCE Q: What do you wish you knew before you started?

1:21:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Dealing with plateaus and injury?

1:24:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting through tenosynovitis?

1:26:48 - AUDIENCE Q: What is your inspiration to keep going?

1:29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Plans for a Youtube channel?

1:31:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Sneaking out of boarding school?

1:33:48 - Words of wisdom

1:39:37 - Where to find Bharath and Vishak