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That's Not Real Climbing

That's Not Real Climbing

De : Jinni Xia
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A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.

Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!

For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

Jinni Xia 2023
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    Épisodes
    • Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!
      Jan 19 2026

      Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING.

      Guest links:

      Emma’s Instagram

      Reference links:

      Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

      Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

      Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

      Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

      Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

      Timestamps of discussion topics

      Timestamps of discussion topics

      0:00 - Intro

      1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

      2:11 - My annual stretching resolution

      5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?!

      9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing

      11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit

      14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja

      16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior?

      17:02 - Climbing styles

      20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster

      24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out

      27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing?

      29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o

      31:40 - Being a taller climber

      32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms

      38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella

      39:47 - Season expectations?

      42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture?

      46:45 - Outdoor Climbing

      47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities

      50:29 - Trying to balance training with school

      53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at?

      55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last?

      59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup?

      1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups?

      1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet?

      1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma

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      1 h et 7 min
    • Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series
      Jan 5 2026

      This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 years putting this together, and I’m diving into all the finances as well.

      Guest links:

      PCL Website

      PCL Instagram

      Charlie’s Instagram

      Reference links:

      Solo Documentary (Kayaking Story)

      Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

      Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

      Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

      Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

      Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

      Timestamps of discussion topics

      0:00 - Intro

      1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

      2:13 - PCL test event

      3:32 - IFSC/World Climbing Background

      6:17 - What is Pro Climbing League?

      11:18 - Live routesetting during a competition

      15:21 - YOU may be able to compete!

      19:25 - Hardest part of setting up a climbing league

      24:25 - Why PCL was started

      29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: What prompted the head to head format?

      34:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you consult with athletes for this format?

      40:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Challenges broadcasting this comp?

      44:22 - Getting sponsor money for the league

      47:08 - Most expensive part

      53:00 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the prize money look like?

      1:00:07 - I'm addicted to the concept of sports betting

      1:05:08 - What does success look like?

      1:08:51 - AUDIENCE Q: Future schedule and locations?

      1:11:18 - AUDIENCE Q: What aspect of the format excited athletes the most?

      1:14:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you use adjustable walls for the comp?

      1:17:07 - Where to find PCL deets!

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      1 h et 19 min
    • Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL
      Dec 1 2025

      Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present.

      Guest links:

      Declan’s Instagram

      Zoe’s Instagram

      Reference links:

      Fukuoka Competition Playlist

      Yank n yard stream: Highball boulders comp

      Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

      Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

      Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

      Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

      Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

      Timestamps of discussion topics

      0:00 - Intro

      1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

      2:03 - Starting climbing and competing

      4:48 - Strength training BAD?!

      10:18 - Japan traveling

      11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process

      14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs

      18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp

      20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates

      23:51 - Team competition strategies

      28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days

      31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream

      33:15 - The stress of youth competitions

      35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable

      40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference

      44:37 - Future climbing + education goals

      49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego

      54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event?

      58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training?

      1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers"

      1:03:08 - Outdoor goals

      1:05:17 - Beating Elden Ring

      1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds!

      1:09:13 - Words of wisdom + where to find Zoe and Declan

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      1 h et 10 min
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