Épisodes

  • Skin Barrier 101: How to Repair and Protect A Damaged Skin Barrier

    Skin Barrier 101: How to Repair and Protect A Damaged Skin Barrier
    Jan 22 2026
    Our skin barrier is the foundation for great skin health. However, it's so easy to damage or compromise it with overly complicated routines, product overuse and ingredient misuse. This episode is all about understanding, fixing, maintaining and protecting your skin barrier. Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain the key mistakes we all make from overusing exfoliating acids and misusing retinoids to choosing the wrong cleansers and moisturisers. They also share practical, science-backed tips and dermatologist-recommended products to help restore barrier function and keep skin comfortable long-term. This episode covers: What the skin barrier actually is (and why it’s not “just dead skin”) Why cold weather, wind, heating and lifestyle stress damage the skin barrier How over-exfoliation and product overload can cause irritation The link between barrier damage and acne, rosacea, eczema and sensitivity Signs your skin barrier is compromised (tightness, stinging, redness, flaking) Why less is often more when repairing the skin barrier How cleansers can either protect or strip the skin The importance of moisturising at the right time How humectants, emollients and occlusives work together How to safely recover from retinoid-induced irritation Post-procedure skin barrier repair tips Products mentioned: Avène Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream Avène Tolerance Cleanser Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser SkinCeuticals Epidermal Repair This episode includes a paid partnership with Avène. We only collaborate with brands we genuinely rate and would recommend in clinic regardless of sponsorship. All views shared are our own and based on clinical experience and published evidence. Disclaimer: This podcast is for informational and educational purposes only and does not replace personalised medical advice. Always consult your healthcare professional before making changes to your skincare or treatment plan. Have any questions? Send them over to ahsc@raconteur.tv Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic _____ Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    41 min
  • Vitamin C Serums Explained: How They Work, How to Use Them & Which Ones Actually Work

    Vitamin C Serums Explained: How They Work, How to Use Them & Which Ones Actually Work
    Jan 15 2026
    Antioxidants are everywhere in skincare but few ingredients are as well-studied, misunderstood, or overcomplicated as vitamin C. In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid revisit one of our most requested topics: topical vitamin C. They break down the science behind how vitamin C works on the skin, what benefits are genuinely evidence-based, and how to use it properly for maximum results. From collagen production and pigmentation to oxidative stress and UV protection, this episode explains why vitamin C remains the gold-standard antioxidant in dermatology and why drinking it is not the same as applying it to your skin. This episode also covers: What antioxidants actually do at a cellular level Why vitamin C is different from other antioxidants The only form of vitamin C supported by strong clinical evidence Ideal strength, formulation, and pH for effectiveness Why vitamin C should only be used in the morning Common formulation mistakes that make vitamin C ineffective How packaging, expiry dates, and stability affect results Which skin types benefit most and who should be cautious If you’ve ever wondered whether vitamin C is worth the investment, how to choose the right one, or why some formulas work and others don’t, this episode gives you clear, practical, science-backed answers. Products mentioned: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Skinceuticals Silymarin CF Serum For Blemish Prone Skin Skinceuticals Phloretin CF Gel For Skin Discolouration As always, this podcast is for educational purposes and does not replace personalised medical advice. Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin _____ Have any questions? Send them over to ahsc@raconteur.tv Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic _____ Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    17 min
  • Do You Really Need a Night Cream? Dermatologist’s Guide to Circadian Rhythm Skincare & Nighttime Ingredients

    Do You Really Need a Night Cream? Dermatologist’s Guide to Circadian Rhythm Skincare & Nighttime Ingredients
    Jan 8 2026
    Do you really need a night cream…or is it just clever marketing? Here’s your evidence-based, dermatologically approved answer (it’s more interesting than you might think). In this episode of After the Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid reveal what our skin is actually doing while we sleep and why nighttime is a critical window for skin repair, barrier recovery, and long-term skin health. Emma and Ellie explain how our skin behaves differently at night compared to the day, and how aligning your skincare routine with these natural processes can significantly improve results. You’ll learn: What happens to your skin overnight (and why it matters more than you might think) How the circadian rhythm controls skin repair, inflammation, and cell turnover Why skin loses more water at night and how to prevent water-loss Which ingredients work best at night, including retinoids, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, emollients, and occlusives Why vitamin C should generally be avoided at nighttime and used in the morning How melatonin supports overnight skin repair The real evidence behind peptides and where they sit compared to retinoids How to build a night routine that supports barrier health without overcomplicating things The episode also breaks down the confusing world of retinoids. From tretinoin to retinol and retinal, explaining what actually works, what’s less potent, and how to use these ingredients safely and effectively. This episode includes a paid partnership with Avène, featuring discussion of the Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Multi-Intensive Night Cream, a product the hosts genuinely rate for its evidence-based formulation. …If you’ve ever wondered whether night creams are necessary, which ingredients matter most for your night time routine, or how to make your skincare products work harder while you sleep, this episode will give you clarity without myths, fear-mongering, or hype. Products mentioned: Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Multi-Intensive Night Cream Medik8 Advanced Liquid Peptides The Klira Special Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin _____ Have any questions? Send them over to ahsc@raconteur.tv Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic _____ Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    22 min
  • Winter Skincare Explained: Dermatologist Tips to Protect Your Skin in Cold Weather

    Winter Skincare Explained: Dermatologist Tips to Protect Your Skin in Cold Weather
    Jan 1 2026
    Cold weather can wreak havoc on your skin. From dryness caused by central heating to wind and irritant scarves, winter can put serious stress on your skin barrier. This episode is one from the archive and it explains why and how your skincare routine needs to adapt when the cold weather sets in. Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down exactly what happens to your skin in winter and how to protect it. Using practical, evidence-based advice, they explain how to keep your skin hydrated, calm, and glowing throughout the colder months. You’ll learn: Why winter damages the skin barrier and increases dryness, irritation, and flare-ups How central heating, low humidity, and wind affect hydration Which skincare ingredients to pause (and which to prioritise) in winter How to use hyaluronic acid, peptide moisturisers, and SPF effectively in cold weather Why consistency matters more than adding lots of new products How winter habits like scarves, skiing, alcohol, sleep, and diet impact your skin Simple dermatologist-approved tweaks for dry, sensitive, acne-prone, or rosacea-prone skin Whether you’re dealing with flaky skin, breakouts, sensitivity, or dullness, this episode offers clear, realistic advice you can actually stick to, no overcomplicated routines required. Products mentioned: La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Dermo-Pediatrics Kids Ultra Light Invinsible Fluid SPF 50+ Trinny London, Bounce Back Intense Peptide Moisturiser The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer Allies of Skin Peptides and Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment Youthbomb Biologic Collagen Peptide Cream SkinCeuticals H.A INTENSIFIER (M2) Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2) _____ Have any questions? Send them over to ahsc@raconteur.tv Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic _____ Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    24 min
  • The Ultimate Blueprint for Skin Health | Dermatologist's Golden Rules

    The Ultimate Blueprint for Skin Health | Dermatologist's Golden Rules
    Dec 25 2025
    What would the PERFECT day for your skin look like - from morning to night - if nothing else got in the way? No commute. Unlimited time. Unlimited resources… and no stress. Just pure evidence-based skin health. In this final episode in our Golden Rules of Dermatology series, Ellie and Emma build the complete Skin Health Blueprint - a full day of skincare, lifestyle choices, routines and rituals that support glowing, resilient skin. You’ll hear the ideal morning routine, the best timing for exercise, how sleep quality transforms skin, and surprising habits dermatologists actually do (yes, brushing your teeth in the shower is on the list). Simple, realistic, and rooted in science - this episode shows how small daily choices add up. What You’ll Learn: The dermatologists’ ideal morning routine for skin health Why sleep is the foundation of good skin The surprising benefits of brushing your teeth in the shower Best order: brushing, cleansing, moisturising, SPF What to eat (and avoid) for a skin-friendly diet The truth about coffee and rosacea Which exercises are best for your skin (and which aren’t) How movement reduces cortisol and boosts circulation How humidity, sweat and sports environments affect skin Nighttime routines and why enjoying your skincare matters Follow & Connect Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Email: info@afterhoursskinclinic.com Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    22 min
  • Skincare: Where to Save and Where to Spend | Dermatologist’s Golden Rules

    Skincare: Where to Save and Where to Spend | Dermatologist’s Golden Rules
    Dec 18 2025
    Not all skincare needs to be expensive - but some things truly are worth the investment. In this episode, consultant dermatologists Dr Ellie Rashid and Dr Emma Craythorne walk you step-by-step through your routine to work out where to save, where to splurge, and how to make smart choices for your skin and your wallet. From cleansers and moisturisers to antioxidants, SPF, tretinoin and haircare - this episode breaks down the products, treatments and formulas that genuinely deliver results. You’ll learn how to avoid hype, identify evidence-based ingredients, and stop wasting money on products that don’t work. If you’ve ever wondered what’s actually worth it, this episode gives you dermatologist-approved clarity. What You’ll Learn: The truth about cheap vs expensive cleansers When you should splurge on antioxidants Affordable moisturisers that truly work Why SPF can be worth the investment (and when it isn't) The real cost vs benefit of prescription-grade tretinoin Overhyped products and gadgets to avoid How one prescription routine saved a patient thousands in clinic treatments Evidence-based night routines that maximise skin longevity Products mentioned: CeraVe (cleansers) Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF SkinCeuticals (general vitamin C range) CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Avène Tolerance Aveeno Baby Therapy Altruist (body and face SPF) Altruist Hyaluronic Acid SPF La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVmune 400 Avène (SPF range) The DayScript by Klira Lancôme SPF 50 L’Oréal Elvive (shampoo/conditioner) Pureology Kérastase Oribe Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin Follow & Connect Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Email: ahsc@raconteur.tv Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    18 min
  • Retinoids: Dermatology’s Favourite Skin Longevity Ingredient Explained | Dermatologist’s Golden Rule | Dermatologist’s Golden Rules

    Retinoids: Dermatology’s Favourite Skin Longevity Ingredient Explained | Dermatologist’s Golden Rule | Dermatologist’s Golden Rules
    Dec 11 2025
    Retinoids are one of the most effective ingredients in dermatology as well as one of the most misunderstood. In this episode, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down exactly what retinoids are, how they work, and how to use them correctly - for the best results, without irritation. From prescription tretinoin to over-the-counter retinol, Emma and Ellie explain the differences between each type, what the evidence actually shows, and how to build up tolerance safely. You’ll also learn what results to expect and when - including collagen changes, pigmentation improvement, and the famous “retinoid glow.” Whether you’re starting a retinoid for the first time or fine-tuning your routine, this episode gives you clear, practical, dermatologist-approved guidance. What You’ll Learn The difference between tretinoin, retinol, retinal, and retinyl esters Why prescription retinoids work faster and more effectively How to minimise dryness, redness, and purge-related breakouts Why circadian skincare matters (repair vs protection cycles) The timelines for glow, pigmentation improvement, and collagen changes How to adjust your routine seasonally and for sensitive skin Why tretinoin is used for acne and long-term skin ageing Golden Takeaways It’s not if retinoids work - it’s when. Prescription tretinoin has the strongest evidence for skin-ageing benefits. Consistency beats strength: build up slowly for long-term tolerance. Most irritation is preventable with buffering, moisturiser, and methodical use. Use retinoids at night to support the skin’s natural repair cycle. Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin Follow & Connect Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Email: ahsc@raconteur.tv Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    19 min
  • SPF: The Secret to Skin Longevity | Dermatologist’s Golden Rules

    SPF: The Secret to Skin Longevity | Dermatologist’s Golden Rules
    Dec 4 2025
    Sunscreen shouldn't be optional - it’s the single most powerful thing you can do for long-term skin health. In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Ellie Rashid and Dr Emma Craythorne break down the five essential SPF facts everyone needs to know. Ellie and Emma distill years of dermatology experience into one clear, myth-busting SPF masterclass. Learn why SPF is a daily essential, how UV radiation actually damages the skin, the truth about vitamin D, common myths that stop people applying sunscreen, and how to apply (and remove) SPF properly. They also reveal which sunscreens genuinely perform to their stated protection levels, and why some products fail independent testing. What You’ll Learn: Why SPF is the single best tool for long-term skin health How UVA vs UVB damage the skin (and why you need protection all year) Why darker skin tones still need daily sun protection The truth about vitamin D, chemical “toxicity” myths, and coral reef misinformation The importance of protecting children from burning in the sun How to apply SPF correctly (including the two-finger rule) Why SPF in makeup or moisturiser isn’t enough What broad-spectrum really means Why some sunscreens don’t meet their claimed SPF Why removing SPF properly at night is essential Dermatologists’ favourite sunscreens (and why) Products mentioned: La Roche-Posay Anthelios Range Avene (TriAsorB technology) Eucerin (Anti-Pigment & Actinic Control) Altruist The DayScript from Klira Follow & Connect: Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Email: ahsc@raconteur.tv Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    23 min