In this very special episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with one of the most influential surfboard shapers of all time Rusty Preisendorfer.

This is a rare interview with a true icon. Rusty almost never does interviews, which makes this conversation not just important, but historic for surf culture.

Founder of Rusty Surfboards, Rusty Preisendorfer helped define the modern era of high-performance surfing. From the explosive progression of the 1980s to the power surfing revolution of the 1990s and beyond, his boards have been ridden by world champions, innovators, and free-surf pioneers who pushed the boundaries of what was possible on a wave.

In this deep and honest conversation, we explore:

• The evolution of surfboard design from classic single fins to modern high-performance shortboards

• The hidden details in shaping that most surfers never see

• How board design influenced competitive surfing at the highest level

• The mindset required to stay relevant in the surf industry for decades

• Stories from the golden era of professional surfing

• What today's generation of surfers should understand about craft, foam, and rail lines

Rusty shares insights into the art and science of shaping, explaining how subtle adjustments in rocker, volume distribution, and rail configuration can completely transform performance.

For surfers, shapers, and true students of the sport, this episode is a masterclass in surfboard design.

We also talk about longevity. In an industry that constantly shifts with trends, technology, and market cycles, Rusty Preisendorfer built a brand that became globally recognized while maintaining authenticity and performance integrity.

This episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast is not just about surfboards. It's about vision, resilience, creativity, and evolution. It's about how one shaper influenced generations of surfers and helped sculpt the direction of modern surfing.

If you are passionate about surf history, surfboard shaping, design innovation, or the roots of high-performance surfing, this conversation is essential listening.

🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and YouTube.
📲 Follow The Temple of Surf Podcast for more exclusive interviews with surf legends, pioneers, and cultural icons shaping the past, present, and future of surfing.

This is more than an interview.
This is a piece of surf history.

In this episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Dave Tourjé, the visionary artist and co-founder of California Locos, a collective that helped define the visual language of modern surf, skate, and California counterculture.

Dave Tourjé's work sits at the crossroads of surf culture, skateboarding, fine art, street art, and West Coast rebellion. From board graphics and murals to gallery walls and underground scenes, his influence reaches far beyond aesthetics, it's about identity, attitude, and freedom of expression.

In this conversation, we explore how California Locos emerged from a raw, uncompromising creative energy rooted in Southern California's surf and skate communities. Dave shares stories from the early days, when surfing and skateboarding weren't just sports, but lifestyles — ways to push back against conformity and create something authentic.

We talk about the deep connection between art and board culture, how surfboards and skate decks became moving canvases, and why the DIY spirit of skateboarding still fuels some of the most honest art today. Dave also reflects on the evolution of surf culture — from underground movement to global industry and what has been gained, and lost, along the way.

This episode goes beyond nostalgia. It's a real discussion about creative integrity, staying true to your roots, and why art matters more than ever in an era of fast content and short attention spans. Dave Tourjé explains why California Locos was never about trends, but about community, collaboration, and storytelling.

If you're passionate about surfing, skateboarding, California art, street culture, or creative independence, this episode is for you. Whether you grew up skating empty pools, watching surf films on VHS, or discovering this culture for the first time — this conversation captures the soul of it.

🎙️ Listen now and dive into the mindset behind California Locos, surf art, skate history, and the rebellious creativity that shaped a generation.

👉 Don't forget to like, subscribe, and share if surf and skate culture matters to you.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome Brodi Sale, a North Shore of Oʻahu surfer known for his deep respect of Hawaiian surf culture and his powerful approach to heavy waves like Pipeline and Backdoor.

Brodi Sale represents a generation of Hawaiian surfers who prioritize knowledge, patience, and presence in the lineup over visibility and social media hype. Raised on the North Shore, Brodi learned early that surfing Pipeline is not about forcing waves, chasing clips, or proving yourself, it's about earning respect through consistency, discipline, and understanding the ocean.

In this episode, Brodi breaks down what it truly takes to surf Pipeline. We talk about lineup etiquette, wave selection, timing, and why knowing when not to paddle can be just as important as commitment. He explains how Pipeline demands total awareness of the reef, the crowd, the swell, and yourself and why arrogance is quickly corrected by the ocean.

Fear is a major theme of this conversation. Brodi shares how fear becomes a guide rather than a limitation when you accept it instead of fighting it. From breath control and mental preparation to trusting instinct in critical situations, he explains how staying calm under pressure can be the difference between making a wave and paying the price. This insight offers valuable lessons not only for surfers, but for anyone navigating high-consequence environments.

We also explore the contrast between modern surf culture and the traditional North Shore mindset. Brodi reflects on surfing without the pressure of contests or algorithms, choosing instead to focus on personal progression, respect for place, and connection with the ocean. Some of the most meaningful waves of his life, he explains, were never filmed and that's exactly how it should be.

This episode dives deep into Hawaiian surf values: humility in the lineup, patience during long waits, and the understanding that surfing is a lifelong relationship with the ocean, not a performance. Brodi Sale's perspective reminds us that the most powerful moments in surfing often happen in silence, far from the spotlight.

If you're interested in Pipeline surfing, North Shore surf culture, big wave mindset, and the mental side of surfing heavy water, this episode delivers raw insight and timeless wisdom. A must-listen for surfers who value authenticity, respect, and true connection with the sea.

🎧 Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast for an honest, grounded conversation with one of the North Shore's most respected voices.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome Laurent Pujol, an underwater cameraman and surf photographer whose work has helped define how modern surfing is seen, remembered, and felt.

Laurent's career sits at the crossroads of risk, patience, and absolute precision.

Shooting from inside the impact zone, often beneath moving mountains of water, he has developed a rare sensitivity to timing and positioning, the kind that only comes from years spent reading the ocean at its most unpredictable.

In this conversation, we go beyond the surface of surf photography to explore what it truly means to work inside the wave, where mistakes are not an option and instinct is everything.

A central part of the episode dives into Laurent's involvement with 100 Foot Wave, the groundbreaking documentary series that brought big-wave surfing into living rooms around the world. Laurent shares what it takes to film waves of that scale, not just technically, but mentally.

From safety decisions to trust within the water team, he explains how capturing moments at that level requires humility, preparation, and an almost meditative calm in the face of real danger.

We also rewind to European surf history, talking about the legendary Quiksilver Pro France in Hossegor.

Laurent reflects on the unique atmosphere of the event, the raw power of the beachbreak, and how photographing high-performance surfing in such conditions shaped his eye and career. These memories paint a vivid picture of a time when surf contests felt wilder, closer, and deeply connected to place.

Beyond iconic events and productions, this episode explores Laurent's philosophy of image-making. He speaks about restraint in an era of overproduction, the importance of waiting rather than forcing a shot, and why the most meaningful images often come when ego steps aside.

His perspective resonates far beyond photography, touching on surfing as a practice of presence, listening, and respect for forces far bigger than ourselves.

As always on The Temple of Surf Podcast, the conversation drifts naturally into stories, reflection, and the unseen layers of surf culture.

This episode is not just for photographers or filmmakers, it's for anyone fascinated by the invisible work behind iconic images, and for surfers who understand that the ocean rewards those who move with intention rather than urgency.

A deep, thoughtful episode with one of the quiet craftsmen of modern surf imagery, raw, honest, and deeply connected to the water.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Jerome Sahyoun, a Moroccan big-wave surfer whose life has been shaped by powerful oceans, remote coastlines, and a deep respect for waves that demand total commitment.

Born and raised in Morocco, Jerome Sahyoun represents a generation of surfers who grew up far from the spotlight, but close to serious water. Morocco's long Atlantic coastline, exposed to relentless swells, became his training ground, a place where patience, observation, and humility are essential. In this episode, Jerome shares how surfing in Morocco forged both his skills and his mindset, preparing him for some of the heaviest conditions on the planet.

We explore what it truly means to be a big-wave surfer, beyond the images and headlines. Jerome explains the preparation behind charging large, dangerous waves, physical training, breath control, teamwork, and mental discipline. Big-wave surfing is not about recklessness; it is about understanding risk, reading the ocean correctly, and knowing when to commit and when to walk away.

The conversation dives into Jerome's experiences traveling in search of powerful surf, including his connection to Morocco, one of the world's most iconic big-wave arenas. He speaks honestly about fear, wipeouts, and survival, and how each experience in heavy water leaves a permanent mark. These moments, he explains, are not about ego or fame, but about confronting limits and learning respect for forces far greater than yourself.

A central theme of this episode is discipline and responsibility. Jerome talks about how big-wave surfing forces maturity, how mistakes can have serious consequences, and how trust between surfers, drivers, and safety teams becomes essential. He also reflects on how surfing heavy waves influences daily life, shaping patience, decision-making, and perspective away from the ocean.

We also discuss Morocco's growing presence in global surf culture. Jerome offers insight into the country's wave potential, its raw and often uncrowded surf zones, and the importance of local knowledge. He emphasizes protecting the environment and respecting local communities, reminding listeners that surfing is inseparable from the places and people that make it possible.

This episode is not only for big-wave enthusiasts. It is for anyone fascinated by human limits, dedication, and the quiet courage required to face fear head-on. Jerome Sahyoun's story is grounded, honest, and free of exaggeration, a rare look into the reality of a life shaped by powerful waves.

🎧 Tune in to The Temple of Surf Podcast for a deep, authentic conversation with Jerome Sahyoun, a Moroccan big-wave surfer who reminds us that the ocean always decides, and respect is everything.

In this deep and compelling episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, we welcome professor, writer, and one of the most insightful voices in surf literature, Andy Martin. Known for his ability to explore surfing beyond performance and competition, Andy brings a rare blend of academic depth, lived experience, and poetic clarity to the conversation.

Andy Martin has spent decades writing about surfing as culture, obsession, language, and way of life. As a professor, lecturer and a lifelong surfer, he bridges the worlds of academia and the lineup, showing how waves can be read like texts and how surfing reveals powerful truths about identity, freedom, and human connection. His work stands apart for its honesty, nuance, and willingness to explore the emotional and often overlooked sides of surf history.

A central focus of this episode is Andy's acclaimed book Surf, Sweat & Tears, which tells the remarkable and mysterious story of Ted Deerhurst, Britain's first professional surfer and a close personal friend of Andy's. The book moves beyond traditional surf biography, blending investigative writing, memoir, and cultural history to examine both the rise and tragic death of a deeply complex figure. Through this story, Andy reflects on loss, friendship, myth-making, and the responsibility of telling surf stories truthfully.

In the episode, Andy shares how returning to Hawaii to investigate Deerhurst's life and death forced him to confront uncomfortable questions, not just about surfing's past, but about how the surf world remembers its heroes. He explains why surf history often leaves out inconvenient details, and why mature surf storytelling must allow space for contradiction, vulnerability, and unresolved mystery.

The conversation also expands into broader reflections on surf culture today. Andy discusses how surfing has changed, how commercialization has altered its narratives, and why surfing still resists being fully explained or owned. He speaks about waiting, uncertainty, and attention, qualities surfing demands and modern life often erodes.

For Andy, the ocean remains a teacher, offering lessons that extend far beyond the act of riding waves.

This episode is not just for surfers, but for anyone interested in storytelling, culture, and the meaning we attach to passion and place.

Andy Martin reminds us that surfing is not only something we do, but something we interpret, remember, and pass on through words. His insights invite listeners to slow down, listen more closely, and reconsider what really matters in the water and in life.

Thoughtful, intelligent, and deeply human, this conversation honors surfing as both an art form and a way of understanding the world.

This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with Vincent Kardasik, a director, cinematographer, and visual storyteller whose work bridges the worlds of surf culture, film, and ocean-driven narratives.

Vincent is known not only for capturing powerful surf imagery, but for directing and crafting moving stories that go far beyond a single frame. Through film, cinematography, and photography, he explores the emotional depth of surfing, the patience, the tension, the silence, and the moments of release that define life in and around the ocean.

In this episode, Vincent shares his creative journey and how his passion for the sea led him naturally toward directing and cinematography. We talk about the transition from still photography to motion, what changes when you begin telling stories through sequences rather than single images, and how timing, light, and perspective remain essential no matter the medium.

The conversation dives deep into the art of surf filmmaking, from pre-visualizing shots and working with surfers in dynamic environments to navigating heavy conditions, unpredictable weather, and the technical challenges of filming in the ocean. Vincent explains how a director's mindset differs from that of a photographer, and why understanding narrative, rhythm, and emotion is just as important as mastering cameras and lenses.

We also explore the realities of modern surf media. Vincent reflects on how short-form content, social platforms, and fast consumption have changed the way surf films are created and experienced, and why long-form storytelling still matters. He shares insights on collaboration, creative pressure, and the importance of maintaining artistic integrity while working in a highly competitive visual space.

Beyond technique and production, this episode is about vision. Vincent speaks about authenticity, respecting surf culture, and the responsibility that comes with documenting waves, places, and people. We discuss how surf cinematography can influence perception, shaping not only how waves are seen, but how surfing itself is understood.

Whether you're a filmmaker, surfer, creative, or simply passionate about visual storytelling and the ocean, this episode offers valuable insight into the craft of directing surf films and the mindset required to create work that resonates.

This is a thoughtful and inspiring conversation with a filmmaker who sees surfing not just as action, but as cinema , shaped by light, movement, patience, and truth.

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This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we sit down with legendary surfboard shaper Joe Blair, a true craftsman whose influence on modern surfboard design runs deep through decades of wave riding, innovation, and hands-on shaping. Known for his commitment to functionality, flow, and timeless outlines, Joe Blair represents a generation of shapers who learned their craft in dusty bays, under fluorescent lights, driven purely by feel, intuition, and an obsession with waves.

In this episode, Joe Blair takes us back to the roots of his shaping journey, how he first fell in love with surfing, the boards that inspired him, and the mentors and surf cultures that shaped his approach. We talk about the evolution of surfboard design, from classic single fins and early shortboards to the refined performance shapes of today, and how Joe has managed to stay relevant without ever chasing trends.

A central theme of this conversation is craftsmanship versus mass production. Joe shares his perspective on what it means to hand-shape boards in an era dominated by CNC machines, pop-out surfboards, and fast-turnaround factories. He explains why subtle details, rail volume, rocker curves, foil distribution, still matter, and how a board built with intention can dramatically change the way a surfer connects with a wave.

Joe Blair also opens up about shaping boards for real surfers, not marketing concepts. We discuss how listening to surfers, watching them surf, and understanding their local waves is just as important as any technical measurement. From beach breaks to point waves, from everyday surfers to seasoned chargers, Joe explains how he adapts his designs to suit different styles, conditions, and personalities.

Beyond shaping, this episode dives into surf culture itself: the shift in values, the impact of social media, and how younger generations are rediscovering the beauty of simplicity and craftsmanship. Joe reflects on the responsibility of shapers to pass down knowledge, protect surf heritage, and keep the soul of surfing alive in a rapidly changing industry.

This is a deep, thoughtful, and inspiring conversation, perfect for surfers, shapers, collectors, and anyone fascinated by the art and history of surfboard design. Whether you ride a Joe Blair board or simply appreciate the culture behind surfing, this episode offers rare insight into the mind of a master craftsman who has dedicated his life to waves.

🎧 Tune in now and immerse yourself in the world of Joe Blair, where foam, fiberglass, and feel come together in their purest form.

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