i went in for a collection preview at haderlump, honestly one of the strongest up-and-coming names on the berlin schedule and consistently one of the most attended shows every season.

proof that haderlump is having a real moment right now is the decision to open a physical store, at a time when even some of berlin’s oldest and coolest fashion spaces are struggling or closing altogether.

I visited the new space and previewed their winter 2026 collection called VARIUS, inspired by marlene dietrich.

the collection leans heavily into historical references with lace and draping and a softer approach, it makes a clear shift away from the brutalist berlin coded vibe that has been haderlump’s hallmark for since its beginnings.

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https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

FIND HADERLUMP HERE

https://www.instagram.com/haderlump.berlin

filmed by @varvara_film

new year new season they say

WELCOME TO THE FIRST EPISODE OF SEASON 2: we are exploring a parallelism that might be in my head only but I wanted to check if someone else sees this - it's a social experiment.

DID DEMNA GET INSPIRED BY THE REAL TRUE CRIME STORY OF GUCCI'S DYNASTY for his LA FAMIGLIA ss26 collection?

YOU ANSWER NOW, I've said enough.

Video production by @varvara.film on insta

FIND ME HERE:

https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

in this episode im taking dario vitale's exit at versace as an excuse to do a little bit of a brainstorming around the history of the prada group.

i keep saying this but the speculations behind this move are way too good, and honestly the more i look at it the less random it feels ngl.we start in 1913 with the fratelli prada in the galleria, move through miuccia + bertelli turning a luggage shop into a cultural machine, then zoom in on the empire-building years:

when prada bought jil sander and helmut lang and almost broke itself in the process.

from there, we look at dario vitale’s 14 years inside miu miu, his impact on the brand’s image and insane growth, and finally land on my three conspiracy theories about why he was let go from versace right after prada bought the house.

DO NOT FORGET the next episode it's gonna be our yearly giveaway

FIND ME HERE!!!!!!!!!

YOUTI https://youtu.be/OfMSv7zVnQgIG https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelieSUBSTI https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/CICI hello@ameliestanescu.com

kelly cutrone is reality tv lore

one of the few people in fashion who understood that power, communication and a little fear can shape an entire generation.

long before influencer culture she built a world where honesty mattered more than likability.

cheapeau?

00:00 — intro

01:17 — who is kelly cutrone

05:52 — the anti-influencer before influencing

12:04 — influencers as fashion’s frankenstein

16:40 — fashion criticism in 2025

but I was thinking: would someone like kelly cutrone, stern, sharp, villain coded in a devil wears prada way still be accepted TODAY - in my today's mind she sounds blabla-ly and random not/gonna/lie

in this episode i look at the version of her the internet remembers and the one the industry quietly respects.

her rise from the hills and the city, the pedagogy behind her toughness but also her latest interview here

https://open.spotify.com/episode/7KhErSUR8EYG4MTGU5ugin?si=5a86881483614096

we also talk about influencers as fashion’s frankenstein, created by US and then accepted by the industry and then blamed for everything, and where fashion criticism sits today now that creators hold more power than hisotrical institutions like vogue etc

(IMO - no need to add that)

GO UP AND RATE THIS PODCAST XDDDDDDD

i had a massive emotional hangover after my book launch party at paris fashion week ss26 and i let one hateful comment enter my veins like salt on an open wound

I did a lot of work on myself to not let anything get to me and I am proud to say I built a very thick skin but my impostor syndrome triggered me into letting my guard down.

never give this much power to ANYONE let alone a dücking stranger on the internet

I won't let anything cancel WHAT WE DID IN PARIS

this woman right here is too stunned to speak: hundreds of my beloved archivists showed up on a rainy and super busy friday during paris fashion week - the busiest fws of them all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

H O W

W O W

this is pushing me to invest so much more in tfa - 2026 is coming with a BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMM

con amore

Amelie

FIND ME HERE

yt https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

ig https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

substi https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

cici hello@ameliestanescu.com

ciaoooooo

margiela just did the unthinkable: a celebrity face.

miley cyrus.

shot by paolo roversi.

it reads like a commercial until you actually look at the pictures. they’re stripped back, almost ascetic. not pop-star gloss—image as study. and the paint on her skin isn’t theatrics; it’s bianchetto, the maison’s white-overpaint usually reserved for shoes, bags, even furniture—applied so wear and time become part of the design. now it’s on a body. the star becomes ground primer surface.

suddenly you’re reading line the curve of a tabi the geometry of a 5ac not “miley.”

i respect miley; she’s one of the few who actually knows how to rebrand without begging for redemption arcs. she treats brand like a medium —build strip build again which makes her a sharp match for margiela’s long game of transformation. roversi’s language helps: soft focus + long exposures + painterly light that dissolves edges. it turns fame down to a hum so the house codes can speak.

this is a campaign that will divide and maybe that's intentional.and yes: margiela has been the house of anti-celebrity for decades. anonymity is a value here not a gimmick

-------- masks and/or makeup and/or veils from the start + faces blurred so the clothes take center stage.a “first-ever face” is a big deal culturally and let me tell you the purists ARE LIVID!!!

from my end - not being a purist myself - I believe that a fashion brand as a business has the need and responsibility to adapt to the times they're operating in and in this ECONOMY come on.

MILEY OR NOT MILEY this campaign is great and roversi is always an incredible choice.

FIND ME HERE ‪https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie/

FIND THE POD ON YT AND SUBSTI and rate it for the love of gods of fashion!!!!