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THE 10TH NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE/OLYMPICS

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 Canal St. Martin Neighborhood: Part IThis area of Paris, the Canal Saint Martin was built to move goods and provide water through the city in the early 19th century during Napoleon’s reign. Later it was partially covered over by Baron Haussmann’s renovations of the city in the 1850s. By the mid-20th century, the canal had almost outlived its significance. However, with the famous film HOTEL DU NORD (Original Trailer) the area suddenly became one of those sleeper neighborhoods that started to revitalize. The film AMELIE (the trailer) directed by Jean-Pierre Jeumet also brought the quartier to the attention of new generation of BOBOs (bohemians) who are now filling the streets to be seen in bars, restaurants, chic vintage shops. When the warmer weather arrives one might see a groups of friends sitting on the edge of a canal with a little picnic their legs dangling over the canal edge to enjoy the cooler temperatures. This Substack is reader-supported. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.The Quai de Jemappes in Paris 10thMy parents and my sister and I lived on the LEFT BANK (5th) area near the SORBONNE in Paris. Our visits to friends who lived in the Canal St. Martin area on Sundays for Lunch happaned at 72 Quai de Jemappes. There, on the 4th floor (still there today, though converted into multiple apartments) we could enjoy the quiet calm of the neighborhood. I remember a roast dinner, a creme caramel for dessert or apple tart. Appetizers were petite crevettes (small shrimps) and glasses of champagne or a lovely wine for my parents and a roast lamb, perhaps. The apartment had windows that opened out onto a long balcony that stretched the length of the building. The area is much the same. I recently visited and rented an apartment just up the street. There at number 72, I looked up and could recall Madame, a beautifully coiffed French Lady wearing her Chanel skirt, silk blouse with pearls leaning over the balcony greeting to the flat, once again. Time has stopped, on this canal. My French Sunday Dinners at 72 Quai de JemappesAs our family entered the building we stepped into the elevator that clanked and creaked up to the top floor. The doors swung open into the hallway, always carpeted in 19th century oriental carpets. The double oak doors of the apartment would open into a vestibule then to an expansive dining room with a large oak table. The sideboard was always crowned by a tall vase with flowers. The carefully assembled place settings were completed with two crystal goblets, folded linen napkins and mother of pearl knife rests. These were a mystery to me, until it was explained that in France, knives and utensils never rest directly onto the dining tables soiling the tablecloths. The display of the French elegance is typical of the French upper merchant classes from the 19th century. This was always in evidence at these lunches. Madame was the granddaughter of an important beauty family from the south of France, the perfume capital of the world, Grasse. The extraordinary Napoleon III desk that was displayed in the study belonged to her father, and grandfather, both powerful wholesale brokers of scents and perfumes for the COTY brand. The Desk was a dark green color with golden gilt on the legs and displayed the weight of an empire that had gone by. It was a beautiful room with those same windows that opened out onto a balcony. These were happy times, and later, after my father’s death, we celebrated him at a similar luncheon. The Vases of George Sand: From the Chateaux to the MantlepieceThese vases were in the study at the Apartment on the Canal Saint Martin. Sometimes, on ocaission they were the topic of discussion with my father, who was a huge fan of GEORGES SAND. These SEVRES porcelain vases were a pair with faded flowers and worn golden painted edges in true 18th century style. The story repeated was they came from an antique dealer near the chateaux at NOHANT where Georges Sand’s family resided through the generations. Her circumstances often forced her to sell objects to the local dealers for cash. True or not, it was been the start of many interesting conversations at our Sunday dinners in the Canal St. Martin. The vases now rest carefully wrapped in a box, their provenance part of this unique history. I am looking for a new place to put them now. HOTELS and SUCHFor more information on perfect places to eat and enjoy some well known chefs in the area and nearby or a wine shop to visit while you are in the area: Here is my list to Make A Note for a well Regarded French Meal with chefs of renown and am interesting wine shop to remember. 1. Le Cellier de la BUTTE. 113 Rue Caulaincourt, 75018 Paris, France (a bit further worth the trip) Here the Caviste gives you a formidable experience and you can wander the dusty aisles searching for the perfect wine or champagne. 2. SEPTIME restaurant (*) Michelin Star with sister WINE Bar (across the ...
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