What if fine dining didn’t come with exclusivity, hierarchy, or a single way to belong?

Justin Burke sits down with Telly Justice, co-owner and chef of HAGS, a trans-owned, queer-focused fine dining restaurant in New York City’s East Village that’s redefining what fine dining can be—and who gets to belong. Built on care, access, and intention, HAGS makes sliding-scale meals a core part of its model, proving that excellence and equity can coexist.

Telly shares how queerness and transness shape HAGS’ approach to food, creativity, and survival; the importance of chosen family; and building a restaurant culture rooted in mentorship, softness, and collective care. This conversation explores power, hospitality, and what it truly means to feed people well while treating people well.

Below are the people, businesses, and organizations mentioned in this episode, including this week’s guest(s):

• Telly Justice - connect on Instagram
• Camille Lindsley - connect on Instagram
• HAGS - learn more, make a reservation at HAGS, and follow on Instagram
• John Birdsall - subscribe to John’s Substack, Shifting the Food Narrative, follow on Instagram, or visit John’s website.

Queer Food Stars Telly wants you to know:

• Luna Vela
  • Neighborhood Molino
• Silver Iocovozzi
  • Neng Jr’s

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That Ate:

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• Want to collab or have a suggestion for a future guest? Visit the website.